Author Archives: Jean-Claude Garnier

The music of India

In India everything has a divine origin. Music comes from the Gods. Brahma, the creator, has also created the universe, the world, with the primeval sound, the song ‘Ôm’.

Brahma, the creator, is a singer; all the Gods of Indian mythology are musicians. Shiva, plays the Damaru, symbolizing the sound pulse, source of all creation, but also rhythm (Damaru, double small hourglass drums). Ganesh plays the mridang (elongated barrel shaped drum providing two-sided percussion – a temple instrument – sanskrit: mrid ‘land’ and ‘body’ ang). Hamunan played little cymbals on handles and also the mridang. Sarasvati plays the vina, and Krishna plays the bansuri (great flute), etc.

There is even a celestial orchestra, consisting of musicians: the ghandarvas.

Indian music is very diverse but can be divided into two broad types, one designed for expression to the divine in the temples, the other for the pleasure of the King and Princes and for popular entertainment.

With time and geopolitical changes (invasions) classical music has divided into two kinds, the so-called Southern “carnatic” music is integrated with dance, while the so-called Northern ‘Hindustani’ music brings together Muslim and Mughal influences.

Carnatic musical instruments include the Vina (stringed instrument, called Saraswati vina or Viña carnatic) and mridangam (long two-ended drum), accompanied by the “tambura” (called tanpura in the North), which produces a harmonic drone throughout (now replaced by an electrical appliance, alas !).

 

For the Northern music, you find the sitar or sarod, accompanied by the tabla and the Dhaga (famous percussion instrument – tabla has a male sound, the Dhaga has a feminine sound). Here too, all is accompanied by the ‘tanpura’ (with its harmonic drone throughout.

Indian classical music is based on rhythmic mathematical principles. It is on these rhythmic structures that the musician will be able to improvise as he wills. Classical music has no partition (but there are very strict rules, you do not play just any which way). The raga defines the melodic framework for the played piece. Each raga is associated with a feeling, a season, a time of day (dawn, dusk, etc.).

Popular music 

In the modern era, the most common popular music comes from Bollywood-type movies, tirelessly broadcast on TV and radio channels and even on mobile phones.  It is a romantic, eclectic music that incorporates, in addition to Indian orchestrations, Western influences, Greek, African, jazz, South American etc. Indian pop has enjoyed growing success in recent years. It represents more than 30% of the television channel MTV-India.

Folk music 

There are in India as many folk music types as there are languages… and musical instruments, often made by the musician himself.

There is also 

Bhajan

Bhajan (sometimes called kirtan) means any type of devotional singing, most often in the form of a sung prayer in honour of a deity.

The qawwalî.

The gawwali are of Sufi origin, from the North of India in the 14th century. These are songs, of two groups: hamd or manqabat devotional songs dedicated to Allah.

The ghazal

The ghazal are the songs of love dedicated to women in the Muslim tradition, from Persia, sometimes with mystical resonance. They have only one verse and are sometimes sung in syncopated rhythm. They are found throughout the Muslim world. In India, they have been translated into Urdu.

The Bâuls, the madmen of God…

The Bâuls (fools in Bengali) refer to groups of nomadic musicians who roam Bengal and the North of India, singing religious songs and begging for their livelihood. They follow a similar philosophy to that of the poet and philosopher Kabîr. The Bâuls have influenced the poetry of Rabindranath Tagore. It was not so long ago that there was no TV or radio, and the only means of cultural dissemination was through itinerant musicians and players such as the Bâuls. For millennia, they have been the means of transmitting knowledge to all layers of society.

To deepen your knowledge:

  • Alain Daniélou, La Musique de l’Inde du nord, Paris: Éditions Buchet-Chastel, 1985.
  • Alain Daniélou, Origines et pouvoirs de la musique, Ed. Éditions Kailash, 2003 (ISBN 2842680901)
  • Alain Daniélou, Musiques et danse de l’Inde, Ed. Michel de Maule, 2007 (ISBN 2876232200)

Web sites:

Hinustani Raga Sangeet Online : http://www.moutal.eu/index.php EN/FR bilingual site, with rare audio & video archives since 1902; radio broadcasts on the ragas.

Bollywood music:

The popular or folkloric ethnic dances of India

We all know the many and wonderful classic sacred Indian dances related to Shiva, under his form of Naṭarāja Shiva, the king of dance.

As colourful as they are lively, a great number of popular dances from villages, as well as sacred dances, are also found throughout India up to the borders of Himalaya. According to specialists, there are as many different folk dances as there are languages in India – which means a lot.

I admired and sometimes took part to a few ones.

In Ladakh, the Tse Shu or Nagrang dance is a ritual through which oracles make predictions. Similarly, the Kabgyat Gustor Gangon Tsedup and the masked dances (Chams) can be admired in September in Leh.

In Sikkim, the « chaam » is a religious “lamaïst” dance practiced in the Gompas temples. The most famous is the « Tse Chi », which happens in July and expresses the life of Guru Rinpoche. Another chaam happens in the beginning of February, two days before the Tibetan New Year, and symbolises the fight between good and evil.

In Penjab, the Bhangra, was originally a folkloric dance meant to celebrate the harvesting of the crops. It disappeared with the partition of the country in 1947. A new folkloric dance, the Bhangra, was then created in the years 1950. Very energetic, it is specifically practiced by men. Other dances from Penjab are Luddi, Jhummar, Dhamaal, and Gham Luddi.

In Rajasthan, there are many traditional dances such as the Kalbeliya dance, or « dance of the snake », and the « Chari dance » which involves pots full of fire. The pots that the dancers carry on their heads derive from of a ritual traditionally executed during marriages where they were used to spread light on the face of the bride.

Radha & Krishna dancing painting

Radha & Krishna dancing painting

In Gujarat, « Ghumna », which means « to turn », is a dance practiced by women using sticks. The « Teratali » dance, only interpreted by women, consists in a prayer addressed to the god Babaramdev (one the names of Krishna). Dancers carry small cymbals between each of their fingers and toes. « Terah » meaning thirteen, the dancer (who is seated) attaches thirteen cymbals on different parts of her body.

Danseur flok

In Tamil Nadu, the Kalhaï kûtthu is more of an acrobatic show than a dance, offered by traveling artists groups who turn somersaults on poles or stilts. In the Kolâttam dance, a very old local practice, dancers choke sticks against each other following various rhythmic patterns. Finally, the Bagavatha nadanam is a religious dance, executed around a ritual oil lamp in the Madapam of temples, and practiced in honour of Krishna.

Mahābalipuram, during your stay to practice Ashtanga Yoga in winters, late December and during the month of January of each year you will have the opportunity to see in the first part of the show’s « Dance Festival », some one of these folk and colorful expressions.

See : The Classical dancing

Astrology Indian (Jyotish), assistance in decision making…

Indian Astrology is part of the auxiliary sciences of Hinduism, so connected to the Veda.

In India, no important decision is taken without consulting an astrologer. Indian Astrology (Jyotish), the oldest, is based on 27 moon constellations (nakṣatra) and passages of the Moon close to them in the union or not with the position of the Sun.

According to jyotish astrology, we are at any time connected with the universe.

The Maharaja of Mysore had at his service his own Devin/Astrologer, Krishna Pattabhi Jois (the father of Guruji – Sri K. Pattabhi Jois).

Sri Krishna Pattabhi Jois fater of Guruji

Sri Krishna Pattabhi Jois fater of Guruji

What is that Indian Astrology?

Everyone knows his “sign” in Western Astrology: Cancer, Lion, Sagittarius or otherwise. It is in fact the seasonal sign occupied by the Sun on the day of the birth.

The Sun lies a month in each sign, since it passes over all twelve in the year. The changes occur around the 21st of each month. So, a date of birth tells us directly to which ‘sign’ the person belongs.

Things are not as simple in Indian Astrology, firstly because this discipline gives primacy to the Moon and not to the Sun and then because it uses a Zodiac said to be “sidereal”: the signs of the Zodiac are superimposed on the constellations, without the inexorable shift due to the precession of the equinoxes. Knowing one’s sign in Indian Astrology would more or less imply knowing the constellation crossed by the Moon at the moment of birth. This Lunar position cannot be simply inferred from the date of birth, it requires other skills and other means.

What is a natal chart?

It is the representation of space, visible from a specific point of the globe, at a specific time. In this place, at this moment, someone came into the world. The schema of his sky of birth is called the theme.  As in a snapshot, the natal chart captures this inextricable energy node that corresponds to the new-born being. Because a being is an energy node…

He can only stay, continue to be what he is, as long as these energies in their clash remain in balance. No balance is perfectly stable, so the being will never cease to transform.

The great currents that are at work will keep for a time (time of an existence) their strength, their meaning, and their character. The intensity and quality of these energies come from all over the universe, they define at the birth of an individual his nature, shape and  “degree in being” or, if preferred, his level of consciousness.

To go further  

You can receive a free Indian astrological study: http://www.yourplanets.com/

I deeply thank Mr Jean Dethier, for his introduction to Indian Astrology. He had the pleasure of studying in India with the Professor, K. Neelakantan, recently deceased, who also exercised Astrology with the Maharajah of Mysore, circa 1928.

Visa application for India

For your Ashtanga Yoga workshop at Mahābalipuram in India, below are the necessary administrative formalities.

Formalities at the date of 28 February 2016 :

You need a valid passport (valid for at least 6 months after the date of departure).
You must obtain a visa (mandatory) that can be obtained at the Consulate of India in your country.

Visa India

On the website of the Indian Centre of your country for Visa applications :

  • You can obtain the forms and fill them in,via the Internet.
  • You will need two identity photos size 5 cm x 5 cm
  • Price: 80 €
  • Allow a week to get your in Belgium. (BECAREFULL: for some foreigners – like the British – it can take longer ) 

Caution: always check on the official website of the Embassy, the formalities can change !

 

The Indian Embassy 

  • Belgium: indembassy.be 
    217, Chaussee de Vleurgat, 1050 Brussels, Belgium.
    Working hours : 9.00 AM to 5.45 PM from Monday to Friday
    1.00 PM to 1.45 PM Lunch
    Telephone Numbers : +32 (0)2 6409140 & +32 (0)2 6451850
    Fax Number : +32 (0)2 6451869 (Consular wing) & +32 (0)2 6489638
  • France: http://www.ambinde.fr   
    15 Rue Alfred Dehodencq, 75016 Paris, France
    Tel. : 00 33 1 40 50 70 70
    Fax : 00 33 1 40 50 09 96
    Métro (Subway) : La Muette (Line no 9)

 

Indian Centre for Visa applications 

      http://www.ppcfr.lnk.visafirst.fr/fr/fr_visas

 

Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary (ornithological sanctuary)

Vedanthankal Bird Sanctuary, the ornithological reserve, is located in the small village of Vedanthangal.

You can admire more than 40,000 birds (including 26 rare species), coming from various parts of the world.

 

They stay in the reserve during the migratory season. The best time to visit this wonderful quiet place is from November to March. During this time, the birds are seen building and maintaining their nests. The best time for bird watching is early morning or at the end afternoon, before sunset.

Vedanthangal is 60 km south of Mahābalipuram in the direction of Pondicherry (1 hour drive). Close from May to November.

Vedanthankal Bird Sanctuary, website :

 

Pongal, the Festival of rice harvest and of cows

Pongal is the festival of rice harvest and thankfulness. Generally it is celebrated with the family, at home, and lasts four days. It is one of the most colourful festivals in South India. It is based on the solar calendar. It is a bit like an Indian Easter. The houses are thoroughly cleaned. The mistress of the house (with the help of her daughter) draws a Rangoli or Kolam in front of the door on the street. The cows are painted and decorated. There is a ritual of boiling rice with cane sugar and spices in a big pot, until it boils over and bubbles out of the vessel; it is then shared with everybody.

 

In Tamil Nadu, the festival lasts four days.

Pongal is a secular festival celebrated throughout India on the 14th of January. It is called Makara samkrānti. The sun reverses its course from the Tropic of Sagittarius (Dhanu Rachi) to the Tropic of Capricorn (Makara Rachi) or the Tropic of Crocodile (makara). “Samkrānti “ means “the movement of the sun from one sign of the zodiac to another”. There are thus twelve “samkrānti“, that are considered auspicious days, suggesting a new beginning or the beginning of a phase of good omen in the Indian culture…

Makara samkrānti is the call for the awakening all the latent powers in man, not only for the development of his individual personality to its fullest potential but also for the well being and glory of society as a whole.

The Hindu philosophy praises the human activity considering it a supreme value without which nothing can be achieved in life. In a Subhaashita it is said:

Udyamam saahasam dhairyam buddhisshaktih paraakramaha |

Shadete yatra vartante tatra devaassahaayakrit | |

The Gods will help those who display the six attributes : activity, boldness, courage, wisdom, strength and courage

The very last śloka (श्लोक) of the Bhagavad-Gītā (भगवद्गीता) also highlights the supreme necessity of the human efforts in every field of human attainment:

Yatra yogeshwarah Krishno yatra Paartho dhanurdharah |
Tatra shreervijayo bhootirdhruvaa neetirmatirmama | |

Wherever there is Krishna, the Lord of Yoga, and wherever there is Partha (Arjuna), the archer, there will indeed abide, victory, Prosperity, glory, and righteousness. 

The first day (Bhogi Pandigai), during the entire night, the children pound on a small hand drum around a bonfire where old used fabrics, clothing and mats are discarded and burnt, symbolizing the destruction of evil. Traditionally the clay kitchen utensils were broken, marking thereby the start of a new life. Decorative patterns or rangolis are drawn on the ground in front of each house.

The second day (Thai Pongal), early in the morning, recently harvested rice is boiled in new clay pots with fresh milk and molasses or brown cane sugar, and cardamom, while leaving the mix to boil over and bubble out of the vessel in order to attract Gods’ goodwill. People prepare snacks and deserts, pay visits to each other and exchange greetings.

The third day (Maattu Pongal) is dedicated to honouring the cows and buffalos that serve for working in the fields. They are painted with patterns, embellished with flowers and fed with new rice before being taken for a walk in the streets to the sound of festive music.

In certain villages, the attraction of the day may be a quite violent race of young bulls, called Jallikattu, or a race of bullock-carts.

During the last day (Kaanum Pongal), the young people used to meet on the banks of rivers to look for a future spouse but this practice has nowadays fallen into disuse. During this period people eat sugar canes and also use them to decorate their homes. Also, men try to catch bundles of currency notes from the horns of bulls.

The festival has also an astrological signification: it marks the beginning of the Uttarayana period, during which, for six months, the sun takes its most northern journey in the sky. In Hinduism Uttarayana is considered as a favourable period, when important events are planned.

 

Mahābalipuram, you can during your current session of Ashtanga Yoga in the month of January participate in rich colors and music event, in fact the “ Tourism Office ” organizes each year for these festivities of the Pongal, a visit to a traditional village.

Om Shanti

Pondicherry, a little bit of France in India…

The coast of Coromandel, close to Pondicherry, is ideally suited for a charming stay: beaches of white sand, Hindu temple complexes, small fishing villages, the ancient French counter where the past is still present, a stay in a charming hotel – all this will make your Yoga workshop an unforgettable experience.

 

The town, Pondicherry or Puducherry, is often referred to as Pondy. Pondicherry has a unique architecture, inherited from a mixture of cultures and its French and Tamil colonial past.

Pondicherry has a special ambience and charm, completely different from the rest of India. Formerly a French colony, today it is an Indian territory, 160 km from Chennai (Madras), 100 km from Mahābalipuram, along the Coast of Coromandel, in the Gulf of Bengal. Take a stroll, walking or on a cycle rickshaw, through the charming streets with evocative names, where you can admire the finest examples of colonial architecture.

 

 

Immerse yourself in the old marketplace, at the junction of Nehru Street & Mahatma Gandhi Road, with its surprising fragrances from the fish, fruit, vegetable and flower markets, buy coffee or tea in “The Lakshmi Coffee”, go out for lunch at “Energy Home”, a surprising and absolutely delicious cuisine, 35a, Chety Street. Visit Sri Aurobindo’s ashram in Auroville. Enjoy a French breakfast at “Baker Street”, 123, Bussy Street, or an Indian one in a house with traditional Tamil architecture, the “Maison Perumal”, 44 Perumal Koil Street: dosai, idly, kalapam and uthappam, from 7.30 until 10.00.

 

Pondicherry is 100 km away from Mahābalipuram, 2 hours by bus or 11/2 hours by car.

Visit of Auroville, a utopian, mystic and environmental project located 20 minutes from Pondicherry.

Auroville, the “the city of Aurora”, was conceived by “The Mother” as a place for a universal community life, where men and women would learn to live in peace, in perfect harmony, beyond all beliefs, political affiliations and nationalities”.

 

To-day around 1.600 inhabitants, from some thirty countries, live in this utopian and mystic place. In its centre stands the Matrimandir, the soul of Auroville. Inside there is a room coated with white marble, in which a huge solid crystal (70 cm diameter), the biggest in the world, is exhibited. It is devoted to meditation.

On January 20th 2009, His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatso, inaugurated the Tibetan Pavilion. The architect drew inspiration from the Kalachakra Mandala plans.

 

 

Staying a few days in Auroville, walking around and meditating in the Matrimandir, are wonderful experiences.

 

For this experience, you must obtain a pass from the reception of the Visitor Center to visit the Matrimandir and the gardens surrounding it. It is also necessary to have another ‘’pass’’ for a session of meditation to the Matrimandir. A shady trail, 2 km from the Centre of the Matrimandir visitors.

 

Timetables for the “pass” to the visitors Centre
  Morning Afternoon
Week 9h30 to 13h 13h30 to 16h00
Sunday 9h30 to 13h Close
 
Opening hours of the Matrimandir visitors
  Matin Afternoon
Week 9h30 to 13h30 14h00 to 16h30
Sunday 9h30 to 13h00 Close

Auroville, accueille pass

Tout Pondi-logo

Auroville is located 6 km north of Pondicherry which lies 100 km from Mahābalipuram.
It takes 01.45 hours by car and 2 hours by bus to go to Pondicherry, around 100 km from Mahābalipuram.

Visit the Ashram in Pondicherry

When in Pondicherry I warmly recommend you to pay a visit to the ashram of Sri Aurobindo on “Marine Street” in the old French Quarters. It is a beautiful colonial style mansion where the faithful meditate. In 1920 a French woman joined Sri Aurobindo and became his spiritual companion, since then known as “The Mother”. Sri Aurobindo’s teachings are a synthesis of traditional and modern Yoga. The aim of his Yoga practice is to develop inner spiritual life. With this practice the unique Self is revealed, thus developing a supramental spiritual awareness that transforms human life.

 

Sri Aurobindo´s ashram was founded on November 24, 1926. In December of the same year, Sri Aurobindo decided to abandon public life to dedicate himself solely to the action of the Supramental Force, leaving the management of the ashram in the hands of “The Mother” (Mira Alfassa), who continued his work after his death in 1960.

In 1968 “The Mother” refers to the project of a new village in the following terms :

“There shall be on Earth an unalienable place, a place that does not belong to any nation, a place where all beings of good faith, sincere in their aspirations, can live free as citizens of the world…”

 

Auroville, situated ten kilometres north of Pondicherry, the project of an experimental modern and spiritual village, came to life in 1969,

In the ashram you can meditate at the feet of Sri Aurobindo’s and “The Mother” “Samadhi” that is covered with fresh flowers, a peaceful place, accessible every day from 8.00 – 12.00 and 14.00 – 16.00

 

Pondicherry is 100 km away from Mahābalipuram, 2 hours by bus or 11/2 hours by car.

Massage at Mahābalipuram

Seek peace of mind and well being of the body through the ancient knowledge of the Ayurveda. After an Ashtanga Yoga session, I would recommend an Ayurveda massage with Krishna. Ladies can also have beauty care with Jessy.

The benefits of massage…

Ayurveda means “ Life awareness ”. It is the traditional medicine of India, the most ancient therapeutic system in the world. The sources of Ayurveda are found in the Vedas, representing 5000 years of continuous history and knowledge. It is a holistic approach of the human being.

This science aims to re-establish the balance of the human organism at the level of the body, mind and soul through the therapeutic and curative action of oils, plants and minerals.

« The ultimate goal of the Ayurveda is spiritual fulfilment. »

The Ayurveda philosophy is based on giving a treatment in order to create a new homeostasis for the body using plants, nutrients, massage, yoga or meditation.

« Every illness is a step towards healing, all bad and all pains are harmonization with nature towards good, every death is an opening towards immortality. Why is it so? It is the secret of God that only the souls who are purified from selfishness can understand. »
Sri Aurobindo

Panchakarma or the five steps (of the cleaning process) :

  1. Snehana : ingestion of ghī ( ghee, clarified butter).
  2. Virechana : a light purge usually based on the use of Neem oil.
  3.  Swedhana : sweating in a similar way as in a hammam ( Soft steam bath, 40° warm)
  4.  Basti: a light colon enema
  5.  Abhyanga: several hot oil massages given by experienced physiotherapists.

Different massages for Vata, Pitta et Kapha

  • Abhyanga : full body oil massage
  • Udvartana: detoxing and slimming massage with chickpea flour.
  • Pinda svéda: with rice pudding or sand plant poaches, to heat the body and stimulate sweating in order to eliminate toxins.
  • Pichauli : hot oil massage by 4 hands.
  • Padaghat: deep massage given by the physiotherapist using his feet!
  • Pizzichili: massage given on a special table allowing a hot oil bath.
  • Shirodhara: a treatment that consists of letting herbal oil at mild temperature run smoothly over the forehead of the patient. Origins of the word: composed of two Sanskrit terms: Shira = forehead et Dhara = flow.
    It is one of the steps of the panchakarma.  The liquids that are used can include oil, milk, buttermilk, or coconut water. Shirodhara has a clarifying and calming effect on the mind and enhances cognitive functions. Shirodhara can help entering a state of profound relaxation.
  • And many others …

Duration: from 45 min to 2 hours according the type of massage
Duration of a treatment: from 3 days to 4 weeks depending on the treatment

Our Ayurveda partners at Mahābalipuram

  • For massage:

Krishna Kumar, he works at the Greenwoods Hotel, Othavadai Cross Street.
ayurkrishna2005@yahoo.com
Price: from 1000 rupees to 2000 rupees depending on the type of massage, packaging possibilities for therapy.

  • For an Ayurveda medicine consultation

Doctor Arathi in Ayurveda medicine, young and friendly lady. Sri Durga, 36 Othavadai Street (just by the Moonrakers Restaurant) first floor.
Price: Consultation 200 rupees

  • For the beauty care

Mrs Jessy Ravi (Ayurveda Beautician), The Mayuri ayuvedic Massage Beauty Parlour, 5, Othavadai Street.
Price: from 250 rupees to 2000 rupees depending on the type of care.