Tag Archives: Mahābalipuram

To see in Mahābalipuram

Mahābalipuram, nowadays Mamallapuram, « the city of Mahā Bali », is a small city in Tamil Nadu situated 60 km south of Chennai (Madras) on the Coromandel coast. This charming little town is worldwide known for its « Shore Temple » by the ocean, near a large sand beach, and for he fascinating remains dating from the period of the Pallavas, between the 5th and 7th centuries.

This is where Jean-Claude has been teaching Ashtanga Yoga for twenty years, twice a year. Mahābalipuram hosts every year, from the end of December till the end of January an important « Indian Classical Dance Festival ». It is an important archaeological site designated by the Unesco as a world Heritage site since 1985. Non-Indian tourists pay only one entrance fee, equivalent to 5 dollars, for visiting all the monuments.

  • The Descent of the Ganges or Arjuna’s Penance, magnificent low relief 27 m long by 9 m high, sculpted on a huge granite rock, illustrating the legend of the Descent of the celestial Ganges on Earth, by the hair of the god Shiva. You will see Arjuna, in a Yoga posture, surrendering himself to a very harsh penance lasting for a thousand years. Are also present: Gods, Goddesses, aquatic animals as nāga and nāginī…

 

The mandapa(s), on top of a hill count, eight small « mandapam » sanctuaries, sheltering beautiful statues, two of which are unfinished.

  • Krishna’s mandapa is one of the most beautiful. You see Lord Krishna lifting with one hand the Mount Govardhana to protect the villagers and the cows from the thunderstorm, triggered by the anger of the God Indra.
  • Le mandapa de Shiva  Īśvara  « le Seigneur suprême »
  • The five Rathas (Pancha Ratha) are large wooden procession chariots. In Mahabalipuram, this name is used to designate monolithic temples carved in the shape of buildings, inside the rock.
  1. Ratha of Draupadi, dedicated to Durgâ
  2. Arjuna’s Ratha
  3. Nakula’s Ratha
  4. Bhima’s Ratha
  5. Yudishtara’s Ratha
  • Krishna’s Butter Ball, a large round shaped granite rock that seems to be in unstable balance. According to a legend Krishnâ, as a child, stole a butterball.
  • The Tiger Cave situated a few kilometres (4km) north of Mahābalipuram, on the road to Madras, beside the sea, carved inside a large rock. The site is called Saluvankuppam. Coconut trees shadow the site; it is preferable to visit at sunrise or at sunset to enjoy a magical light. The cave was originally dedicated to the Goddess Durgâ. It is a monument dating from the period of the Pallavas.
  • The Temple of Īshvara is fully carved in the rock.
  • A small museum, with a friendly staff, shelters statues, paintings and the result of archaeological excavations; open daily.

Gingee

A visit to Gingee, a site outside the usual touristic circuits, as abandoned. Four old forts located on the top of various hills, in a wonderful granite landscape surrounded by paddy fields and wild vegetation full of monkeys.

A must see! ! A magical atmosphere in the universe of Rudyard Kipling or Indiana Jones! Good for your shape!

 

Temple of Venkataram, the place is very enjoyable with a large green lawn well looked after. In the middle of what looks like a little park, stands a 500 years old abandoned temple with 1000 columns.

In the Inner fort, at the foot of the castle, you’ll observe various remnants that are scattered on the site, like the six-storey Palace of Weddings. Climbing to the top of the mountain is an unforgettable experience with a unique landscape as reward.

 

The gigantic elephant’s pond is very impressive and a must seen as well as the hundreds of years old trees with their gigantic circumference.

Visit the other hill and its castle, the Krishnagiri. Those who love climbing, will enjoy this site, the steps are quiet high and sometimes become just big slabs you have to step over, exhausting climb in the sun with no infrastructure.

The view from the top is amazing, beautiful, a 360° view on the surroundings

On the top, more columns, a sort of mini-acropolis and a temple, and a lot of monkeys!

Be careful! It is very hot up there!! Bring water. Give yourself 2 or 3 days to visit everything.

Situated 70 km west of Pondicherry (about 1h20 drive).
Situated 123km southwest of Mahabalipuram. (2h drive).

Kanchipuram, one of India’s seven sacred cities

One of India’s seven sacred cities (its name comes from `Puram`: city, and `Kanchi`: gold, which makes Kanchipuram, `the golden city`), it was the capital of the Pallava dynasty for several centuries. Also known as `the city of 1000 temples`, of which one can still find about one hundred – witnesses of its history – whose walls seem to be singing mantras. Kanchipuram attracts millions of Shivaite and Vishnuite pilgrims.

 

The city is also well known for its hand woven silk saris, very appreciated for weddings, but one piece of advice: do not buy them there, they are more expensive than in Chennai. However, do go and visit a silk weaving workshop, it is very interesting.

It is very old, dusty city, without charm except for the undeniable beauty of its temples with their magical atmosphere.

 

The entry to the temples is FREE. It is also possible to hire a guide. The temples are open from 6h30 to 12h30 and from 16h to 20h. Prepare small change for shoe keepers, beggars and the numerous priests …

Below are the three temples not to miss, either because of their architectural beauty or for their sacred and religious atmosphere.

 

Kailashanath Temple (Pallava, 700/728) is dedicated to God Shiva (Mount Kailash is the mythical abode of Shiva). A bit isolated, 2 km outside the city to the west, this relatively small, but extremely beautiful edifice was built under the reign of King Rajasimha and King Varman III, his son. It is the most famous, the most beautiful and also the oldest Pallava temple; it is still almost intact. Due to its sobriety, specialists consider it a masterpiece of Dravidian architecture and sculpture.

It is accessed through the garden, which gives a sense of harmony to the place. Then you go through a small gate to access the sanctuary. After the small gopura adorned with deity figures and various motifs, you are in the inner courtyard. Opposite the entrance, a wonderful Nandi (the vehicle of Shiva).

The inner cloister gives a certain serenity to the place. In the outlying cells that accompany the inner enclosure there are numerous statues, as well as traces of ancient wall frescoes, from the 8th century. This is the most interesting part of the temple.

The temple is covered with statues coated in white stucco. Shiva is venerated under the form of the lingam in the cella (Holy of Hollies), accompanied by Parvati.

  Kailashanath Temple

Ekambareshvara Temple: huge 9a temple, dedicated to Shiva. You enter the inner courtyard passing through an enormous gopura, 60m high, dating from 1509. The mandapa (`hallway with a thousand pillars` – in reality 540) at the entrance of the temple is a big hallway with sculptured granite pillars, opened towards the outside. Here, examine thoroughly the numerous sculptures on the pillars; they are all different. Note the Nandi facing the temple entrance. A bit further, on the left, you will see the Kalyana Mandapa.

The famous sacred mango tree, 3500 years old, is situated in the inner courtyard; it is considered to be the axis of the world. From its four branches giving fruits of different flavours, representing the four Vedas, there are unfortunately only two left. It is here that Shiva and Kamakshi (Parvati) got married (as did JC and Anne). Outside you will find the ablution basin. If you ask the permission, you can climb up to the top of one of the gopurams.

 

 

Ekambareshvara Temple

Varadaraja Swami or Devarajswami Temple, dedicated to Vishnu, is 1 km away from the city in the direction of Mahābalipuram. The temple is surrounded by a high massive stonewall. Once you have passed by the gopura at the entrance, on your left there is a wonderful 96 pillars mandapa; on the finely crafted pillars you will see several good representations of the 10 incarnations of Vishnu. On the left side of this mandapa, you can see, hanging from the roof, a chain carved from a single block of granite. It is the most interesting part of the visit, as non-Hindu are not allowed inside the temple. At the back of this mandapa, there is big purification ablution basin. In front of the main entrance there is a big djavasthamba (standard bearer), a long brass pole that supports the temple banner, and a Nandi.

 

  Varadaraja Swami

Practical information:

  • This small city is only 66 km away from Mahābalipuram and 60 km away from Chennai (Madras). Do not spend the night there, the hotels are modest and often dirty, like in all pilgrimage places.
  • The temples are quite a long way away from each other. Rent a bike or, after having negotiated the price, hire the services of a rickshaw for the day (800INR).
  • You have to pay a fee for taking photos (20 INR) and videos (100 INR). Look after your ticket carefully.

Traditional Indian dance festival in Mamallapuram

During the sessions of Ashtanga Yoga of late December and January, Mahābalipuram hosts one of the most important classical Indian dancing festivals.

Starting on the 26th of December, it goes on for 4 to 5 weeks, until the end of January.

 

A large variety of dances are presented, such as: Bharat Natyam, Kuchipudi,Kathak, Mohiniattam, Odissi and Kathakali. Colourful folk dances are also performed. Tamil Nadu has developed and perfected this fine art. The most famous type of folk dancing in the villages is the Karagattam.

 

It is a unique occasion to appreciate the best dancers of the country performing in beautiful surroundings with the Shore Temple in the background. It gives a magical atmosphere to this festival.

Tirukalikundram

Visit this village dedicated to Shiva. It has a wonderful market filled with fruits, vegetables and flowers. Lying at the bottom of the hill of the sacred eagles.

 

At the tip of this hill is the temple of Vedagireshvar builded in the 16 century.

You’ll need to climb the 571 steps barefoot to reach to top . The view of the region is breathtaking and it is a perfect spot to observe the temple and the water tank from above.

Until the death of the old Brahmane, two eagles were spotted every day eating from his hands.

 

The temple bellow, Bhaktavatsaleshwara, is also worth the visit. With his four Gopuram, his 2 « enceintes ». At the centre is a statue of Ganesh standing at shiva’s feet who’s represented under the form of lingam.

 

Located 17km from Mahabalipuram.

Bring water for the climbing of the steps.

 

The Crocodile farm.

An this farm 5000 crocodiles and alligators from various size and coming from all over the world. It is a center of study and reproduction for the natural reserve of the wild life.

The best time to visit is at 4.15m. While they are fed.

Located on the road to Chennai 15km north of Mahābalipuram. Open every day from : 

  • 30 am until 5.30 pm

Dakchinachitra

DakshinaChitra is a centre for the living traditions of the arts: arts of the popular show, craft and architecture of the India focusing on the traditions of South India. Many exhibitions of artists.

 

It is a non-profit organisation.

DakshinaChitra opened to the public in 1996. The centre occupies 10 Ha dominating the golf of Bengal in Muttukadu.

 

Open from 10am until 6pm everyday, but Tuesday.

Admition price :

  • 200 RS.

DakchinaChitra, on the road to Chennai, 35 km north of Mahābalipuram, and 25 km south of Chennai.

Cholamandal artists’ village

The village of Cholamandal is located between Mahabalipuram (40km) and Chennai (20km). It is a co-op of artists. You’ll find a large variety of paintings and craft on wood, steal or copper of quality, in a large exhibition room.

 

Inside this complex, there is a souvenir shop where you can get the excellent book, in English “Cholamandal An Artist’s Village*.”

 

Nearby is little café serving pastry in a lovely garden, the « Garden Restaurent, Shiraz ».

Garden Restaurent, Shiraz

Cholamanda is 50 minutes from Mahābalipuram (40km) by car. You can take the bus to Madras (Chennai).

* Cholamandal an Artist’s Village, edited by Josef James, Oxford University Press, Chennai India. ISBN 019 566988 6

Book Cholamandal

Website :

Cheyyur, South of Mahābalipuram

This village is located outside the tourist circuits, 30 km South of Mahābalipuram, before Merkanam, a little away (6 km on the right) from the road that goes to Pondicherry. There is an ancient temple dedicated to Shiva; the entry with a gopuram, is worth a visit. One discovers a mandapa with square pillars decorated with rearing up horse riders, in Nayak style. A sanctuary houses the Goddess Parvatī. In the second mandapa, there are some interesting statues of Ganesha, Shiva Lingodhbhava, Kārtikeya * and their wives, as well as Brahma. In the outer courtyard, notice two small sanctuaries of Ganesha and Murugan (another name for Kartikeya), the two sons of Shiva and Parvati.

Approximately 300 metres further on, in the same village, stands the Murugan temple (Subramanyan). One of the mandapa also has pillars decorated with high reliefs of rearing up horses with riders, they have recently been cleaned. In a recess of the temple, many very beautiful procession Deities ‘Utsav Mûrti’ in gilt bronze, are kept in a room that is protected by large iron bars. Murugan, who can be seen on the side, accompanied by his two wives, is splendid.

Cheyyur, lies 48 km South of Mahābalipuram (1 h by bus or 45′ by car).

The temple of Chidambaram

Chidambaram is known all over India for its famous temple devoted to Siva (Shiva) represented in Naṭarāja form, Naṭarāja or the “cosmic dancer”, dances the creation (Ananda Tandava). Dating back to the end of the Chola Empire during the XIIth century AD, the temple built on grounds covering 22 hectares, holds four large gopurams directed towards the four cardinal points. Depictions of Hindu myths are finely sculpted within the gopurams.

 

There are many symbols represented through “Shiva Naṭarāja”, the King of Dance :

 

  • Shiva holds himself in a “circle of fire” known as thiruvāsi, which symbolizes the vibrant, rhythmic and cyclical nature of Life.
  • Shiva presses down with its right foot on the demon Mulayaga in this way signifying the defeat of the evil that arises from ignorance, avidya.
  • His left leg is held up in the air and symbolizes the path to salvation/righteousness.
  • The palm of his first right hand is held forward, a gesture referred to as patāka, which denotes protection and the distancing from fear.
  • In his second right hand, Shiva holds a tambourine (the ḍamaru) in a gesture called ḍamaru-hasta, which represents creation through the rhythm of Life, the passing of time.
  • His first left arm is extended in front of his body; his hand pointing towards the foot, taking the mudra of kari-hasta position, that means, “Here I am”. It is in this way that Shiva focuses upon himself all that is, demonstrating the elevation and the liberation/emancipation through the jungle of ignorance.
  • In his second left hand, Shiva holds the fire of transformation. That is to say the vital force, which is a symbol of the vital energy (Prāṇa).
  • One can see on the left side of his face the crescent moon (Chandra), which symbolizes the highest degree of knowledge. This includes intellectual, sensorial and emotional knowledge.
  • On the right side of his face the Ganges, in its fish form (Matsya) can be found. The Ganges is a symbol of water giving Life.
  • On the left side of his body, the belt floating in the wind represents the withdrawal, the disappearance of illusion (Māyā).
  • One can see a “Royal Cobra” coiled around Shiva’s waist, on his right side. This is an ancient symbol of fertility. In fact, it represents – through the remains of past universes – the seed of all future creations as well as immortality.
  • A stoical face represents a brave attitude through adversity. Thus the neutrality of the expression implies balance.

 

Within the sanctuary of Naṭarāja, there is a temple devoted to Pārvatī known as Shivakami, the consort of Shiva. It is, in this space, that are represented the different dance figures in the style of Bharata natyam

Location :

The temple of Chidambaram is located 60 km South of Pondicherry (1h30 by car from Pondy and 3h30 from Mahābalipuram).

The temple is closed from 12:00 to 16:00.