Monthly Archives: November 2014

Tirukalikundram


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Visit this village dedicated to Shiva. It has a wonderful market filled with fruits, vegetables and flowers. Lying at the bottom of the hill of the sacred eagles.

 

At the tip of this hill is the temple of Vedagireshvar builded in the 16 century.

You’ll need to climb the 571 steps barefoot to reach to top . The view of the region is breathtaking and it is a perfect spot to observe the temple and the water tank from above.

Until the death of the old Brahmane, two eagles were spotted every day eating from his hands.

 

The temple bellow, Bhaktavatsaleshwara, is also worth the visit. With his four Gopuram, his 2 « enceintes ». At the centre is a statue of Ganesh standing at shiva’s feet who’s represented under the form of lingam.

 

Located 17km from Mahabalipuram.

Bring water for the climbing of the steps.

 


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The Crocodile farm.


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An this farm 5000 crocodiles and alligators from various size and coming from all over the world. It is a center of study and reproduction for the natural reserve of the wild life.

The best time to visit is at 4.15m. While they are fed.

Located on the road to Chennai 15km north of Mahābalipuram. Open every day from : 

  • 30 am until 5.30 pm

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Dakchinachitra


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DakshinaChitra is a centre for the living traditions of the arts: arts of the popular show, craft and architecture of the India focusing on the traditions of South India. Many exhibitions of artists.

 

It is a non-profit organisation.

DakshinaChitra opened to the public in 1996. The centre occupies 10 Ha dominating the golf of Bengal in Muttukadu.

 

Open from 10am until 6pm everyday, but Tuesday.

Admition price :

  • 200 RS.

DakchinaChitra, on the road to Chennai, 35 km north of Mahābalipuram, and 25 km south of Chennai.


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Cholamandal artists’ village


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The village of Cholamandal is located between Mahabalipuram (40km) and Chennai (20km). It is a co-op of artists. You’ll find a large variety of paintings and craft on wood, steal or copper of quality, in a large exhibition room.

 

Inside this complex, there is a souvenir shop where you can get the excellent book, in English “Cholamandal An Artist’s Village*.”

 

Nearby is little café serving pastry in a lovely garden, the « Garden Restaurent, Shiraz ».

Garden Restaurent, Shiraz

Cholamanda is 50 minutes from Mahābalipuram (40km) by car. You can take the bus to Madras (Chennai).

* Cholamandal an Artist’s Village, edited by Josef James, Oxford University Press, Chennai India. ISBN 019 566988 6

Book Cholamandal

Website :


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Cheyyur, South of Mahābalipuram


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This village is located outside the tourist circuits, 30 km South of Mahābalipuram, before Merkanam, a little away (6 km on the right) from the road that goes to Pondicherry. There is an ancient temple dedicated to Shiva; the entry with a gopuram, is worth a visit. One discovers a mandapa with square pillars decorated with rearing up horse riders, in Nayak style. A sanctuary houses the Goddess Parvatī. In the second mandapa, there are some interesting statues of Ganesha, Shiva Lingodhbhava, Kārtikeya * and their wives, as well as Brahma. In the outer courtyard, notice two small sanctuaries of Ganesha and Murugan (another name for Kartikeya), the two sons of Shiva and Parvati.

Approximately 300 metres further on, in the same village, stands the Murugan temple (Subramanyan). One of the mandapa also has pillars decorated with high reliefs of rearing up horses with riders, they have recently been cleaned. In a recess of the temple, many very beautiful procession Deities ‘Utsav Mûrti’ in gilt bronze, are kept in a room that is protected by large iron bars. Murugan, who can be seen on the side, accompanied by his two wives, is splendid.

Cheyyur, lies 48 km South of Mahābalipuram (1 h by bus or 45′ by car).


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The temple of Chidambaram


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Chidambaram is known all over India for its famous temple devoted to Siva (Shiva) represented in Naṭarāja form, Naṭarāja or the “cosmic dancer”, dances the creation (Ananda Tandava). Dating back to the end of the Chola Empire during the XIIth century AD, the temple built on grounds covering 22 hectares, holds four large gopurams directed towards the four cardinal points. Depictions of Hindu myths are finely sculpted within the gopurams.

 

There are many symbols represented through “Shiva Naṭarāja”, the King of Dance :

 

  • Shiva holds himself in a “circle of fire” known as thiruvāsi, which symbolizes the vibrant, rhythmic and cyclical nature of Life.
  • Shiva presses down with its right foot on the demon Mulayaga in this way signifying the defeat of the evil that arises from ignorance, avidya.
  • His left leg is held up in the air and symbolizes the path to salvation/righteousness.
  • The palm of his first right hand is held forward, a gesture referred to as patāka, which denotes protection and the distancing from fear.
  • In his second right hand, Shiva holds a tambourine (the ḍamaru) in a gesture called ḍamaru-hasta, which represents creation through the rhythm of Life, the passing of time.
  • His first left arm is extended in front of his body; his hand pointing towards the foot, taking the mudra of kari-hasta position, that means, “Here I am”. It is in this way that Shiva focuses upon himself all that is, demonstrating the elevation and the liberation/emancipation through the jungle of ignorance.
  • In his second left hand, Shiva holds the fire of transformation. That is to say the vital force, which is a symbol of the vital energy (Prāṇa).
  • One can see on the left side of his face the crescent moon (Chandra), which symbolizes the highest degree of knowledge. This includes intellectual, sensorial and emotional knowledge.
  • On the right side of his face the Ganges, in its fish form (Matsya) can be found. The Ganges is a symbol of water giving Life.
  • On the left side of his body, the belt floating in the wind represents the withdrawal, the disappearance of illusion (Māyā).
  • One can see a “Royal Cobra” coiled around Shiva’s waist, on his right side. This is an ancient symbol of fertility. In fact, it represents – through the remains of past universes – the seed of all future creations as well as immortality.
  • A stoical face represents a brave attitude through adversity. Thus the neutrality of the expression implies balance.

 

Within the sanctuary of Naṭarāja, there is a temple devoted to Pārvatī known as Shivakami, the consort of Shiva. It is, in this space, that are represented the different dance figures in the style of Bharata natyam

Location :

The temple of Chidambaram is located 60 km South of Pondicherry (1h30 by car from Pondy and 3h30 from Mahābalipuram).

The temple is closed from 12:00 to 16:00.


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Kollywood, the major movie studios to visit in Chennai


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The major film studios are nicknamed Kollywood. They compete with those of Bombay …(Bollywood). There are the AVM studios and the Prasad studios. Unlike the Bombay studios, they are generally open to visitors.

You must have the luck to pass by on a day where there is a shooting.

I attended a filming in the Prasad studios, and found it very amusing, especially because of the contrast between some very basic logistics and some hyper sophisticated equipment. The cardboard decorations with the colour remaining stuck on my fingers were not bad either !

 

India remains the largest producer of films in the world.
The film industry in India is the largest in the world, 4 times that of Hollywood

These films have a huge success in India, but also in Indonesia, Iraq, Africa: Egypt, Morocco, Nigeria etc..

Why do we know almost nothing of this cinema, here?

It has the reputation of being superficial, kitsch, without artistic creativity. Always the same stories with variations on the theme of love or the struggle of good against evil, and the actors play very stereotypical roles. The characteristics of these movies are: they last over 3 hours; the scenarios are always interspersed with songs (5-6 songs), music and sumptuous choreographies, a finely tuned mixture as the spices in a curry

Movies, songs

Very commercial, this cinema meets the public expectations who require several dances, a love story, comedy, melodrama, all according to a carefully balanced mixture like the spices in a “masala” or a “curry”.
Unlike Hollywood where music is a genre in itself, in Indian cinema, songs and dances are an integral part of the unfolding of the story and screenplay.
It is a cinema, standardized to the extreme and famous for it’s kitsch. In fact, it is simply a different cinematic language to ours. As explained by Anne-Gaëlle Doshi, consultant in the seventh art of the subcontinent :
“Indian cinema has very strict and very Indian codes traveling poorly in the West, which is what causes the reluctance, but once these codes are acquired and have been accepted, it can be lots of fun.”

 

The year 2013 saw the centenary of the Indian film industry: “100 Years Of Indian Cinema industry.”

 

Photos :

Videos :

South India and music :

A glimpse on Madras – Chennai :

For Tamil movies :

And also the site :


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Visit of the temple of Kapaleeswarar in Chennai.

The temple of Kapaleeswarar in Mylapore, from the Pallava era (8th century), was rebuilt by the Vijayanagara kings. The tower at the entrance of the temple or “Gopura” was erected in accordance with the architectural features of the Dravidian style: a pyramidal portico decorated with polychrome statues drawn from the Hindu mythology.

It refers to the story when Shiva got angry because of the disrespectful behaviour of Brahma towards his daughter Sarasvati, and cut off one of his five heads (cf. Matsyara-Purâna III, 32 and Bhâvagata-Purâna III).

Among the magnificent bronze sculptures are the 63 shivaist Saints, named Nayanmars.

It is worth noting under an old tree, Punnai, the sanctuary devoted to the goddess Parvathi in the form of a peacock, venerating Shiva. The name of Mylapore originated from this legend. “Mayil” which in Tamil means peacock and “ore” town.

Next to the temple, offerings (garlands of flowers, coconuts, incense and perfumes are on sale.

The religious festival of Arubathumoovar takes place every year in March-April at Mylapore. It lasts several days. There is a procession of a statue of Shiva around a sacred pool, mounted on a huge char (12 meters high), called Ratha, drawn by about a hundred Indian pilgrims in ecstasy.

Opening hours Phone
5 am to 11 am
4 pm to 21.30 pm
24 94 16 70

 


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The National Art Gallery in Chennai is a “must”.

The Government Museum, the National Art Gallery and the Connemara Library :

If there is one place to visit in Chennai, it is the National Art Gallery. It is a treat for amateurs of art, paintings and sculpture.

To day, the same site accommodates the Government Museum, the National Art Gallery and the Connemara Public Library.

The Government Museum was built in 1851. It houses an exceptional collection of bronzes from South India, ancient and modern, among them the superb statues of Shiva Nataraja, Parvathi, Rama, Sita, Lakshmana and Hanuman.

 

There are also sections dedicated to geology and anthropology, not very interesting

In the Amravati gallery, several rare marble sculptures dating back to the second century (CE) are exhibited. They show important events of Gautama Buddha’s his life. The sculptures were discovered during excavations on the site of Buddhist ruins in Amravati. Bronzes from the 10th to the 13th centuries and popular crafts from the 11th and 12th centuries are also to be found there.

In the National Art Gallery some magnificent paintings dating back to the 16th and 17th century from Rajasthan during the Mogul period are exhibited, along with Deccan art of the 18th century.

Entrance fees Opening time Closed on Telephone
Adult 15,00 INR 9h30 till 17h30 Friday 28193238
Child 10,00 INR

 

 


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Visiting the manufacturing company of the famous Royal Enfield motorbikes.

In a time of mass production, a ROYAL ENFIELD is a rare product. It is an old-style motorbike, manually assembled with love, developed and conceived with mastery in such a away that each item is a unique design. Originally fabricated in the UK, it is now made in South India.

Its timeless line and its splendid mechanics are elements that have made it prosper in the suburbs of Chennai. The film, “Handcrafted In Chennai” is a tribute to the people who manifacture the beloved Enfield…

 

SITUATION : The manufacturing company is located in Thiruvottiyur, north Chennai.

WHEN : Only the second and the fourth Saturday of each month.

SCHEDULE : The factory tour starts at 9:15 am, followed by a « briefing » at 9: 30. The tour of the factory starts at 10: 15 am.

PRICE : Actually, 600 INR / pers. Please give a tip to your « guide ».

SUBSCRIPTION : there are many visitors so subscription is required in advance.

Video :

Website :

By car, two hours and a half away from Mahābalipuram