Tag Archives: Tamil Nadu

Thanjavur

Thanjavur (Tanjore) is a city in Tamil Nadu state located 400 km South of Chennai, on the South bank of the Cauvery. Thanjavur is famous for the relief style of painting that bears its name. The Thanjavur art works mainly depict the deities of Hindu mythology. Krishna is portrayed having white skin whereas it is traditionally dark blue. The lay out resembles that of Greek icons. The temple of Brihadesvara – a UNESCO World Heritage site – is also known as the temple of Rājarājeshvaram, It is built in the drāvidien style.

 

A large Nandi – Shiva’s famous bull – can be found after the entrance of the interior courtyard. It is 6m in long and 3m high, made entirely of black granite.

The granite and bronze sculptures of its museum are worth a visit. The same goes for the library and the Palace.

The region of Tanjore is rich in history: it is a land of temples of which a large number are rather ancient.

275km South of Mahābalipuram and 171km South of Pondicherry.

There are many interesting temples to visit around Tanjore such as in the towns of Gangaikondacholapuram, Kumbakonam, Darasuram and Swamimalai where one can also see the Bronze Museum and School of Arts as well as the famous bronze foundries in the so called style of “lost wax”.

The popular or folkloric ethnic dances of India

We all know the many and wonderful classic sacred Indian dances related to Shiva, under his form of Naṭarāja Shiva, the king of dance.

As colourful as they are lively, a great number of popular dances from villages, as well as sacred dances, are also found throughout India up to the borders of Himalaya. According to specialists, there are as many different folk dances as there are languages in India – which means a lot.

I admired and sometimes took part to a few ones.

In Ladakh, the Tse Shu or Nagrang dance is a ritual through which oracles make predictions. Similarly, the Kabgyat Gustor Gangon Tsedup and the masked dances (Chams) can be admired in September in Leh.

In Sikkim, the « chaam » is a religious “lamaïst” dance practiced in the Gompas temples. The most famous is the « Tse Chi », which happens in July and expresses the life of Guru Rinpoche. Another chaam happens in the beginning of February, two days before the Tibetan New Year, and symbolises the fight between good and evil.

In Penjab, the Bhangra, was originally a folkloric dance meant to celebrate the harvesting of the crops. It disappeared with the partition of the country in 1947. A new folkloric dance, the Bhangra, was then created in the years 1950. Very energetic, it is specifically practiced by men. Other dances from Penjab are Luddi, Jhummar, Dhamaal, and Gham Luddi.

In Rajasthan, there are many traditional dances such as the Kalbeliya dance, or « dance of the snake », and the « Chari dance » which involves pots full of fire. The pots that the dancers carry on their heads derive from of a ritual traditionally executed during marriages where they were used to spread light on the face of the bride.

Radha & Krishna dancing painting

Radha & Krishna dancing painting

In Gujarat, « Ghumna », which means « to turn », is a dance practiced by women using sticks. The « Teratali » dance, only interpreted by women, consists in a prayer addressed to the god Babaramdev (one the names of Krishna). Dancers carry small cymbals between each of their fingers and toes. « Terah » meaning thirteen, the dancer (who is seated) attaches thirteen cymbals on different parts of her body.

Danseur flok

In Tamil Nadu, the Kalhaï kûtthu is more of an acrobatic show than a dance, offered by traveling artists groups who turn somersaults on poles or stilts. In the Kolâttam dance, a very old local practice, dancers choke sticks against each other following various rhythmic patterns. Finally, the Bagavatha nadanam is a religious dance, executed around a ritual oil lamp in the Madapam of temples, and practiced in honour of Krishna.

Mahābalipuram, during your stay to practice Ashtanga Yoga in winters, late December and during the month of January of each year you will have the opportunity to see in the first part of the show’s « Dance Festival », some one of these folk and colorful expressions.

See : The Classical dancing

Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary (ornithological sanctuary)

Vedanthankal Bird Sanctuary, the ornithological reserve, is located in the small village of Vedanthangal.

You can admire more than 40,000 birds (including 26 rare species), coming from various parts of the world.

 

They stay in the reserve during the migratory season. The best time to visit this wonderful quiet place is from November to March. During this time, the birds are seen building and maintaining their nests. The best time for bird watching is early morning or at the end afternoon, before sunset.

Vedanthangal is 60 km south of Mahābalipuram in the direction of Pondicherry (1 hour drive). Close from May to November.

Vedanthankal Bird Sanctuary, website :

 

Pongal, the Festival of rice harvest and of cows

Pongal is the festival of rice harvest and thankfulness. Generally it is celebrated with the family, at home, and lasts four days. It is one of the most colourful festivals in South India. It is based on the solar calendar. It is a bit like an Indian Easter. The houses are thoroughly cleaned. The mistress of the house (with the help of her daughter) draws a Rangoli or Kolam in front of the door on the street. The cows are painted and decorated. There is a ritual of boiling rice with cane sugar and spices in a big pot, until it boils over and bubbles out of the vessel; it is then shared with everybody.

 

In Tamil Nadu, the festival lasts four days.

Pongal is a secular festival celebrated throughout India on the 14th of January. It is called Makara samkrānti. The sun reverses its course from the Tropic of Sagittarius (Dhanu Rachi) to the Tropic of Capricorn (Makara Rachi) or the Tropic of Crocodile (makara). “Samkrānti “ means “the movement of the sun from one sign of the zodiac to another”. There are thus twelve “samkrānti“, that are considered auspicious days, suggesting a new beginning or the beginning of a phase of good omen in the Indian culture…

Makara samkrānti is the call for the awakening all the latent powers in man, not only for the development of his individual personality to its fullest potential but also for the well being and glory of society as a whole.

The Hindu philosophy praises the human activity considering it a supreme value without which nothing can be achieved in life. In a Subhaashita it is said:

Udyamam saahasam dhairyam buddhisshaktih paraakramaha |

Shadete yatra vartante tatra devaassahaayakrit | |

The Gods will help those who display the six attributes : activity, boldness, courage, wisdom, strength and courage

The very last śloka (श्लोक) of the Bhagavad-Gītā (भगवद्गीता) also highlights the supreme necessity of the human efforts in every field of human attainment:

Yatra yogeshwarah Krishno yatra Paartho dhanurdharah |
Tatra shreervijayo bhootirdhruvaa neetirmatirmama | |

Wherever there is Krishna, the Lord of Yoga, and wherever there is Partha (Arjuna), the archer, there will indeed abide, victory, Prosperity, glory, and righteousness. 

The first day (Bhogi Pandigai), during the entire night, the children pound on a small hand drum around a bonfire where old used fabrics, clothing and mats are discarded and burnt, symbolizing the destruction of evil. Traditionally the clay kitchen utensils were broken, marking thereby the start of a new life. Decorative patterns or rangolis are drawn on the ground in front of each house.

The second day (Thai Pongal), early in the morning, recently harvested rice is boiled in new clay pots with fresh milk and molasses or brown cane sugar, and cardamom, while leaving the mix to boil over and bubble out of the vessel in order to attract Gods’ goodwill. People prepare snacks and deserts, pay visits to each other and exchange greetings.

The third day (Maattu Pongal) is dedicated to honouring the cows and buffalos that serve for working in the fields. They are painted with patterns, embellished with flowers and fed with new rice before being taken for a walk in the streets to the sound of festive music.

In certain villages, the attraction of the day may be a quite violent race of young bulls, called Jallikattu, or a race of bullock-carts.

During the last day (Kaanum Pongal), the young people used to meet on the banks of rivers to look for a future spouse but this practice has nowadays fallen into disuse. During this period people eat sugar canes and also use them to decorate their homes. Also, men try to catch bundles of currency notes from the horns of bulls.

The festival has also an astrological signification: it marks the beginning of the Uttarayana period, during which, for six months, the sun takes its most northern journey in the sky. In Hinduism Uttarayana is considered as a favourable period, when important events are planned.

 

Mahābalipuram, you can during your current session of Ashtanga Yoga in the month of January participate in rich colors and music event, in fact the “ Tourism Office ” organizes each year for these festivities of the Pongal, a visit to a traditional village.

Om Shanti

Pondicherry, a little bit of France in India…

The coast of Coromandel, close to Pondicherry, is ideally suited for a charming stay: beaches of white sand, Hindu temple complexes, small fishing villages, the ancient French counter where the past is still present, a stay in a charming hotel – all this will make your Yoga workshop an unforgettable experience.

 

The town, Pondicherry or Puducherry, is often referred to as Pondy. Pondicherry has a unique architecture, inherited from a mixture of cultures and its French and Tamil colonial past.

Pondicherry has a special ambience and charm, completely different from the rest of India. Formerly a French colony, today it is an Indian territory, 160 km from Chennai (Madras), 100 km from Mahābalipuram, along the Coast of Coromandel, in the Gulf of Bengal. Take a stroll, walking or on a cycle rickshaw, through the charming streets with evocative names, where you can admire the finest examples of colonial architecture.

 

 

Immerse yourself in the old marketplace, at the junction of Nehru Street & Mahatma Gandhi Road, with its surprising fragrances from the fish, fruit, vegetable and flower markets, buy coffee or tea in “The Lakshmi Coffee”, go out for lunch at “Energy Home”, a surprising and absolutely delicious cuisine, 35a, Chety Street. Visit Sri Aurobindo’s ashram in Auroville. Enjoy a French breakfast at “Baker Street”, 123, Bussy Street, or an Indian one in a house with traditional Tamil architecture, the “Maison Perumal”, 44 Perumal Koil Street: dosai, idly, kalapam and uthappam, from 7.30 until 10.00.

 

Pondicherry is 100 km away from Mahābalipuram, 2 hours by bus or 11/2 hours by car.

Gingee

A visit to Gingee, a site outside the usual touristic circuits, as abandoned. Four old forts located on the top of various hills, in a wonderful granite landscape surrounded by paddy fields and wild vegetation full of monkeys.

A must see! ! A magical atmosphere in the universe of Rudyard Kipling or Indiana Jones! Good for your shape!

 

Temple of Venkataram, the place is very enjoyable with a large green lawn well looked after. In the middle of what looks like a little park, stands a 500 years old abandoned temple with 1000 columns.

In the Inner fort, at the foot of the castle, you’ll observe various remnants that are scattered on the site, like the six-storey Palace of Weddings. Climbing to the top of the mountain is an unforgettable experience with a unique landscape as reward.

 

The gigantic elephant’s pond is very impressive and a must seen as well as the hundreds of years old trees with their gigantic circumference.

Visit the other hill and its castle, the Krishnagiri. Those who love climbing, will enjoy this site, the steps are quiet high and sometimes become just big slabs you have to step over, exhausting climb in the sun with no infrastructure.

The view from the top is amazing, beautiful, a 360° view on the surroundings

On the top, more columns, a sort of mini-acropolis and a temple, and a lot of monkeys!

Be careful! It is very hot up there!! Bring water. Give yourself 2 or 3 days to visit everything.

Situated 70 km west of Pondicherry (about 1h20 drive).
Situated 123km southwest of Mahabalipuram. (2h drive).

Visiting the manufacturing company of the famous Royal Enfield motorbikes.

In a time of mass production, a ROYAL ENFIELD is a rare product. It is an old-style motorbike, manually assembled with love, developed and conceived with mastery in such a away that each item is a unique design. Originally fabricated in the UK, it is now made in South India.

Its timeless line and its splendid mechanics are elements that have made it prosper in the suburbs of Chennai. The film, “Handcrafted In Chennai” is a tribute to the people who manifacture the beloved Enfield…

 

SITUATION : The manufacturing company is located in Thiruvottiyur, north Chennai.

WHEN : Only the second and the fourth Saturday of each month.

SCHEDULE : The factory tour starts at 9:15 am, followed by a « briefing » at 9: 30. The tour of the factory starts at 10: 15 am.

PRICE : Actually, 600 INR / pers. Please give a tip to your « guide ».

SUBSCRIPTION : there are many visitors so subscription is required in advance.

Video :

Website :

By car, two hours and a half away from Mahābalipuram