Tag Archives: Madras

Visit of Auroville, a utopian, mystic and environmental project located 20 minutes from Pondicherry.

Auroville, the “the city of Aurora”, was conceived by “The Mother” as a place for a universal community life, where men and women would learn to live in peace, in perfect harmony, beyond all beliefs, political affiliations and nationalities”.

 

To-day around 1.600 inhabitants, from some thirty countries, live in this utopian and mystic place. In its centre stands the Matrimandir, the soul of Auroville. Inside there is a room coated with white marble, in which a huge solid crystal (70 cm diameter), the biggest in the world, is exhibited. It is devoted to meditation.

On January 20th 2009, His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatso, inaugurated the Tibetan Pavilion. The architect drew inspiration from the Kalachakra Mandala plans.

 

 

Staying a few days in Auroville, walking around and meditating in the Matrimandir, are wonderful experiences.

 

For this experience, you must obtain a pass from the reception of the Visitor Center to visit the Matrimandir and the gardens surrounding it. It is also necessary to have another ‘’pass’’ for a session of meditation to the Matrimandir. A shady trail, 2 km from the Centre of the Matrimandir visitors.

 

Timetables for the “pass” to the visitors Centre
  Morning Afternoon
Week 9h30 to 13h 13h30 to 16h00
Sunday 9h30 to 13h Close
 
Opening hours of the Matrimandir visitors
  Matin Afternoon
Week 9h30 to 13h30 14h00 to 16h30
Sunday 9h30 to 13h00 Close

Auroville, accueille pass

Tout Pondi-logo

Auroville is located 6 km north of Pondicherry which lies 100 km from Mahābalipuram.
It takes 01.45 hours by car and 2 hours by bus to go to Pondicherry, around 100 km from Mahābalipuram.

To see in Mahābalipuram

Mahābalipuram, nowadays Mamallapuram, « the city of Mahā Bali », is a small city in Tamil Nadu situated 60 km south of Chennai (Madras) on the Coromandel coast. This charming little town is worldwide known for its « Shore Temple » by the ocean, near a large sand beach, and for he fascinating remains dating from the period of the Pallavas, between the 5th and 7th centuries.

This is where Jean-Claude has been teaching Ashtanga Yoga for twenty years, twice a year. Mahābalipuram hosts every year, from the end of December till the end of January an important « Indian Classical Dance Festival ». It is an important archaeological site designated by the Unesco as a world Heritage site since 1985. Non-Indian tourists pay only one entrance fee, equivalent to 5 dollars, for visiting all the monuments.

  • The Descent of the Ganges or Arjuna’s Penance, magnificent low relief 27 m long by 9 m high, sculpted on a huge granite rock, illustrating the legend of the Descent of the celestial Ganges on Earth, by the hair of the god Shiva. You will see Arjuna, in a Yoga posture, surrendering himself to a very harsh penance lasting for a thousand years. Are also present: Gods, Goddesses, aquatic animals as nāga and nāginī…

 

The mandapa(s), on top of a hill count, eight small « mandapam » sanctuaries, sheltering beautiful statues, two of which are unfinished.

  • Krishna’s mandapa is one of the most beautiful. You see Lord Krishna lifting with one hand the Mount Govardhana to protect the villagers and the cows from the thunderstorm, triggered by the anger of the God Indra.
  • Le mandapa de Shiva  Īśvara  « le Seigneur suprême »
  • The five Rathas (Pancha Ratha) are large wooden procession chariots. In Mahabalipuram, this name is used to designate monolithic temples carved in the shape of buildings, inside the rock.
  1. Ratha of Draupadi, dedicated to Durgâ
  2. Arjuna’s Ratha
  3. Nakula’s Ratha
  4. Bhima’s Ratha
  5. Yudishtara’s Ratha
  • Krishna’s Butter Ball, a large round shaped granite rock that seems to be in unstable balance. According to a legend Krishnâ, as a child, stole a butterball.
  • The Tiger Cave situated a few kilometres (4km) north of Mahābalipuram, on the road to Madras, beside the sea, carved inside a large rock. The site is called Saluvankuppam. Coconut trees shadow the site; it is preferable to visit at sunrise or at sunset to enjoy a magical light. The cave was originally dedicated to the Goddess Durgâ. It is a monument dating from the period of the Pallavas.
  • The Temple of Īshvara is fully carved in the rock.
  • A small museum, with a friendly staff, shelters statues, paintings and the result of archaeological excavations; open daily.

Kanchipuram, one of India’s seven sacred cities

One of India’s seven sacred cities (its name comes from `Puram`: city, and `Kanchi`: gold, which makes Kanchipuram, `the golden city`), it was the capital of the Pallava dynasty for several centuries. Also known as `the city of 1000 temples`, of which one can still find about one hundred – witnesses of its history – whose walls seem to be singing mantras. Kanchipuram attracts millions of Shivaite and Vishnuite pilgrims.

 

The city is also well known for its hand woven silk saris, very appreciated for weddings, but one piece of advice: do not buy them there, they are more expensive than in Chennai. However, do go and visit a silk weaving workshop, it is very interesting.

It is very old, dusty city, without charm except for the undeniable beauty of its temples with their magical atmosphere.

 

The entry to the temples is FREE. It is also possible to hire a guide. The temples are open from 6h30 to 12h30 and from 16h to 20h. Prepare small change for shoe keepers, beggars and the numerous priests …

Below are the three temples not to miss, either because of their architectural beauty or for their sacred and religious atmosphere.

 

Kailashanath Temple (Pallava, 700/728) is dedicated to God Shiva (Mount Kailash is the mythical abode of Shiva). A bit isolated, 2 km outside the city to the west, this relatively small, but extremely beautiful edifice was built under the reign of King Rajasimha and King Varman III, his son. It is the most famous, the most beautiful and also the oldest Pallava temple; it is still almost intact. Due to its sobriety, specialists consider it a masterpiece of Dravidian architecture and sculpture.

It is accessed through the garden, which gives a sense of harmony to the place. Then you go through a small gate to access the sanctuary. After the small gopura adorned with deity figures and various motifs, you are in the inner courtyard. Opposite the entrance, a wonderful Nandi (the vehicle of Shiva).

The inner cloister gives a certain serenity to the place. In the outlying cells that accompany the inner enclosure there are numerous statues, as well as traces of ancient wall frescoes, from the 8th century. This is the most interesting part of the temple.

The temple is covered with statues coated in white stucco. Shiva is venerated under the form of the lingam in the cella (Holy of Hollies), accompanied by Parvati.

  Kailashanath Temple

Ekambareshvara Temple: huge 9a temple, dedicated to Shiva. You enter the inner courtyard passing through an enormous gopura, 60m high, dating from 1509. The mandapa (`hallway with a thousand pillars` – in reality 540) at the entrance of the temple is a big hallway with sculptured granite pillars, opened towards the outside. Here, examine thoroughly the numerous sculptures on the pillars; they are all different. Note the Nandi facing the temple entrance. A bit further, on the left, you will see the Kalyana Mandapa.

The famous sacred mango tree, 3500 years old, is situated in the inner courtyard; it is considered to be the axis of the world. From its four branches giving fruits of different flavours, representing the four Vedas, there are unfortunately only two left. It is here that Shiva and Kamakshi (Parvati) got married (as did JC and Anne). Outside you will find the ablution basin. If you ask the permission, you can climb up to the top of one of the gopurams.

 

 

Ekambareshvara Temple

Varadaraja Swami or Devarajswami Temple, dedicated to Vishnu, is 1 km away from the city in the direction of Mahābalipuram. The temple is surrounded by a high massive stonewall. Once you have passed by the gopura at the entrance, on your left there is a wonderful 96 pillars mandapa; on the finely crafted pillars you will see several good representations of the 10 incarnations of Vishnu. On the left side of this mandapa, you can see, hanging from the roof, a chain carved from a single block of granite. It is the most interesting part of the visit, as non-Hindu are not allowed inside the temple. At the back of this mandapa, there is big purification ablution basin. In front of the main entrance there is a big djavasthamba (standard bearer), a long brass pole that supports the temple banner, and a Nandi.

 

  Varadaraja Swami

Practical information:

  • This small city is only 66 km away from Mahābalipuram and 60 km away from Chennai (Madras). Do not spend the night there, the hotels are modest and often dirty, like in all pilgrimage places.
  • The temples are quite a long way away from each other. Rent a bike or, after having negotiated the price, hire the services of a rickshaw for the day (800INR).
  • You have to pay a fee for taking photos (20 INR) and videos (100 INR). Look after your ticket carefully.

Dakchinachitra

DakshinaChitra is a centre for the living traditions of the arts: arts of the popular show, craft and architecture of the India focusing on the traditions of South India. Many exhibitions of artists.

 

It is a non-profit organisation.

DakshinaChitra opened to the public in 1996. The centre occupies 10 Ha dominating the golf of Bengal in Muttukadu.

 

Open from 10am until 6pm everyday, but Tuesday.

Admition price :

  • 200 RS.

DakchinaChitra, on the road to Chennai, 35 km north of Mahābalipuram, and 25 km south of Chennai.

Kollywood, the major movie studios to visit in Chennai

The major film studios are nicknamed Kollywood. They compete with those of Bombay …(Bollywood). There are the AVM studios and the Prasad studios. Unlike the Bombay studios, they are generally open to visitors.

You must have the luck to pass by on a day where there is a shooting.

I attended a filming in the Prasad studios, and found it very amusing, especially because of the contrast between some very basic logistics and some hyper sophisticated equipment. The cardboard decorations with the colour remaining stuck on my fingers were not bad either !

 

India remains the largest producer of films in the world.
The film industry in India is the largest in the world, 4 times that of Hollywood

These films have a huge success in India, but also in Indonesia, Iraq, Africa: Egypt, Morocco, Nigeria etc..

Why do we know almost nothing of this cinema, here?

It has the reputation of being superficial, kitsch, without artistic creativity. Always the same stories with variations on the theme of love or the struggle of good against evil, and the actors play very stereotypical roles. The characteristics of these movies are: they last over 3 hours; the scenarios are always interspersed with songs (5-6 songs), music and sumptuous choreographies, a finely tuned mixture as the spices in a curry

Movies, songs

Very commercial, this cinema meets the public expectations who require several dances, a love story, comedy, melodrama, all according to a carefully balanced mixture like the spices in a “masala” or a “curry”.
Unlike Hollywood where music is a genre in itself, in Indian cinema, songs and dances are an integral part of the unfolding of the story and screenplay.
It is a cinema, standardized to the extreme and famous for it’s kitsch. In fact, it is simply a different cinematic language to ours. As explained by Anne-Gaëlle Doshi, consultant in the seventh art of the subcontinent :
“Indian cinema has very strict and very Indian codes traveling poorly in the West, which is what causes the reluctance, but once these codes are acquired and have been accepted, it can be lots of fun.”

 

The year 2013 saw the centenary of the Indian film industry: “100 Years Of Indian Cinema industry.”

 

Photos :

Videos :

South India and music :

A glimpse on Madras – Chennai :

For Tamil movies :

And also the site :

Visit of the temple of Kapaleeswarar in Chennai.

The temple of Kapaleeswarar in Mylapore, from the Pallava era (8th century), was rebuilt by the Vijayanagara kings. The tower at the entrance of the temple or “Gopura” was erected in accordance with the architectural features of the Dravidian style: a pyramidal portico decorated with polychrome statues drawn from the Hindu mythology.

It refers to the story when Shiva got angry because of the disrespectful behaviour of Brahma towards his daughter Sarasvati, and cut off one of his five heads (cf. Matsyara-Purâna III, 32 and Bhâvagata-Purâna III).

Among the magnificent bronze sculptures are the 63 shivaist Saints, named Nayanmars.

It is worth noting under an old tree, Punnai, the sanctuary devoted to the goddess Parvathi in the form of a peacock, venerating Shiva. The name of Mylapore originated from this legend. “Mayil” which in Tamil means peacock and “ore” town.

Next to the temple, offerings (garlands of flowers, coconuts, incense and perfumes are on sale.

The religious festival of Arubathumoovar takes place every year in March-April at Mylapore. It lasts several days. There is a procession of a statue of Shiva around a sacred pool, mounted on a huge char (12 meters high), called Ratha, drawn by about a hundred Indian pilgrims in ecstasy.

Opening hours Phone
5 am to 11 am
4 pm to 21.30 pm		 24 94 16 70

 

The National Art Gallery in Chennai is a “must”.

The Government Museum, the National Art Gallery and the Connemara Library :

If there is one place to visit in Chennai, it is the National Art Gallery. It is a treat for amateurs of art, paintings and sculpture.

To day, the same site accommodates the Government Museum, the National Art Gallery and the Connemara Public Library.

The Government Museum was built in 1851. It houses an exceptional collection of bronzes from South India, ancient and modern, among them the superb statues of Shiva Nataraja, Parvathi, Rama, Sita, Lakshmana and Hanuman.

 

There are also sections dedicated to geology and anthropology, not very interesting

In the Amravati gallery, several rare marble sculptures dating back to the second century (CE) are exhibited. They show important events of Gautama Buddha’s his life. The sculptures were discovered during excavations on the site of Buddhist ruins in Amravati. Bronzes from the 10th to the 13th centuries and popular crafts from the 11th and 12th centuries are also to be found there.

In the National Art Gallery some magnificent paintings dating back to the 16th and 17th century from Rajasthan during the Mogul period are exhibited, along with Deccan art of the 18th century.

Entrance fees Opening time Closed on Telephone
Adult 15,00 INR 9h30 till 17h30 Friday 28193238
Child 10,00 INR

 

 

Visiting the manufacturing company of the famous Royal Enfield motorbikes.

In a time of mass production, a ROYAL ENFIELD is a rare product. It is an old-style motorbike, manually assembled with love, developed and conceived with mastery in such a away that each item is a unique design. Originally fabricated in the UK, it is now made in South India.

Its timeless line and its splendid mechanics are elements that have made it prosper in the suburbs of Chennai. The film, “Handcrafted In Chennai” is a tribute to the people who manifacture the beloved Enfield…

 

SITUATION : The manufacturing company is located in Thiruvottiyur, north Chennai.

WHEN : Only the second and the fourth Saturday of each month.

SCHEDULE : The factory tour starts at 9:15 am, followed by a « briefing » at 9: 30. The tour of the factory starts at 10: 15 am.

PRICE : Actually, 600 INR / pers. Please give a tip to your « guide ».

SUBSCRIPTION : there are many visitors so subscription is required in advance.

Video :

Website :

By car, two hours and a half away from Mahābalipuram

We recommend that you visit Chennai, a big sprawling town, near Mahābalipuram.

Chennai,

Like many other large towns in India, Madras which has been renamed “Chennai” in 1996 (7 millions inhabitants), may seem at first disconcerting and hostile for the traveller who has just arrived.

Road traffic as in any other Indian town is dense, noisy and colourful. Notwithstanding the town has some charm. The cultural life is vibrant and the beaches are beautiful.

The gateway to South India

In fact to appreciate Chennai one has to accept to spend some time, enough to discover the wealth of its cultural heritage. Though the absence of major monuments means few tourists visit the capital of Dravidian art.

Some of the great and exciting things to do and see in Chennai:

  • Going for a stroll on the immense Marina Beach on a Friday or Saturday after sunset. It attracts a huge crowd of Indians in festive mood. On offer are: shooting, riding horse, foodstalls, drinks (sugar cane juice), merry-go-round for children and adults, shops with flashy and twinkling gadgets. One can also have his or her photograph taken with a cardboard cut effigy of a Bollywood star. Expect a long queue, etc…
  • The Governement Art Gallery, a must see
  • The temple of Kapaleeswarar
  • the Theosophical Society, south of Chennai
  • the Kollywood Studios which compete with Bollywood in Mombai. The first silent film in Tamil was shot in 1916. The AVM and Prasad Studios are opened to the public.
  • The factory of the legendray Royal Enfield motorbikes
  • San Thome Cathedral (St. Thomas), Mount St. Thomas (for its view of the city of Chennai and Little Mount.


Little Mount.